The People - The Future, People's Republic of China

I will end my story of my visit to China with an image I took at the People's Garden in Thames Town.  It was of an old woman, the great grandmother of the young child.  When she saw me she was reluctant to have her photograph taken, however, the young child was curious.  The old lady beamed when she realized that I wanted to photograph the young girl, and it was at this stage they both relaxed. 

LEFT:  Great grandmother spends time with the younger generation.

As I began to work out a good angle for the photograph, the young girl moved in close to the side of the old lady with a facial expression that to me spelt "defiance".  In combination with the old lady's "happy" face I realized that China is a nation for the people and those of the next generation.

Although my visit was short to Shanghai, I had witnessed complete polarisation of Chinese society, from the mega wealthy with their mighty speed boats navigating the Yangtze River alongside the Bund, to the newly weds whose prime concern was having their wedding photographs taken in a replica England.  Finally, I had spent time with normal Chinese fighting for a position within their society in which to support the next generation.  China is a place of people; 25 million live in Shanghai alone, which is roughly the population of my country, Australia. 

Whether the People's Republic will live up to it's name is unsure.  The nation has a long way to travel to measure equally with many of its western counterparts, especially in relation to global environmental issues.  However, environmental issues aside, it's easy to see that for the most part Chinese culture is vibrant  and long-lasting and has not as yet  been lost in the drive for western equivalency.

LEFT:  An old lady, who when young saw the beginnings of Shanghai, gazes toward Shanghai's  perceived future - a tall building surrounded in a cloak of pollution.

FALKLANDS

I am soon departing for the Falkland Islands off Agentina.  The  blog will then be back on its original theme  - willdife, wild places and conservation.

Chinese Dichotomies, People's Republic of China

Shanghai is the dichotomy between the old and the new.  Whilst the central city district argues for space to develop and construct modern, tall skyscrapers and strives to match or better the aesthetics of a western city, Shanghai’s outer regions provide a glimpse into everyday Chinese city life.

LEFT:  The new and the old. Modern skyscrapers loom over basic style accommodation.

Within a 5 minute taxi ride or underground tube ride from the central city you can discover an underworld vastly different to flash and glitz of the city central.  The outer city is networked with main streets, many lined with evergreen trees, and most busy with taxis, cars, bicycles, and motor scooters.  Shops fronts are almost endless and thriving sidewalk businesses common. 

I noted an old man who had established a locksmith business on the sidewalk; his tools were old as was his desk, but there was a constant stream of business coming his way.  Further along an old lady was busy repairing sheets with an ancient sewing machine.  The repaired sheets were hung for inspection and collection from the electrical posts along the street.  Further along the sidewalk a more modern business had evolved and a man was busy selling the latest releases of Hollywood movies.

It’s off these streets that you can wander along a seamlessly endless maze of smaller streets and alleys which lead to accommodation blocks, smaller businesses and street-side markets from which a dazzling variety of products are sold from plastic cups to live prawns and fish. 

I discovered a meat market along one of the alleys in which the remains of a poor animal were being unceremoniously cut into slabs of beef for the vendors to sell.  A large tree stump was the cutting board and several sharp knives were being used to fleece the meat into manageable pieces. 

LEFT:  Dumplings are the mainstay of Chinese take away cuisine and can incorporate almost anything!  The dumplings are steamed in large bamboo containers before being offered for sale.

Along  another alley I came across a throng of people all arguing and yelling as they purchased their daily supply of seafood; live prawns were held captive in small red plastic buckets whilst small fish and fresh water eels splashed about in tubs tantamount to freshness.  Although I strongly disagree with the process of keeping captive animals in pitiful conditions to sell, I realize that what I am witnessing is a vibrant society little changed for hundreds of years.  I walked to end of the alley and returned to the seafood market 30 minutes later only to find that the frenzy of activity had been short-lived, the people were gone and all that remained were some scales and fishy innards on the footpath!  It was as if an illegal activity had occurred and the culprits had scampered after the deals had been completed!

LEFT: Old Shanghai is mostly made from wood.  Despite the maze of alleys in the back streets, signage was prominent indicating street names and house numbers.

Although accommodation blocks are very obvious, with their collection of washing hanging out to dry, hidden around these cement monstrosities are the remains of Shanghai little changed from 80 years ago.  Narrow cement lined streets, not wide enough for a car lead to simple adjoined wooden structures with roofs tiled in shingles, wood or metal sheet.  These dwellings literally sit in the shadow of tall modern buildings.  The only resemblance of modern convenience is the satellite dish or television antennae.  

Parks and Gardens

As can be expected China is noisy, however, streets in which accommodation blocks are located are relatively quiet, despite the network of busy and noisy streets surrounding them.  I had bought a fruit bun in a busy street before turning along a side road to almost complete silence.  I was about to consume my purchase on the street when I noticed a sign that said “park”. 

LEFT:  An elderly man immersed in the ancient game of mahjong fails to notice as a foreigner points a camera lens in his direction.  Parks and gardens in China are people orientated and act as a respite from the noise and hype of modern Chinese life. 

Before you could enter he park you had to peruse the rules which were written in both Chinese and in Chinese English.  I dully noted that roller blades and roller skates were  prohibited as was food.  However, you were invited to dine in fine cuisine at the restaurant adjoining the park. 

Finishing my fruit bun (outside the park) I entered to find a small girl playing on roller skates! 

It soon became apparent that Chinese municipal parks do not have a western equivalent.  A rough cement path leads toward an area where elderly people are sitting playing mahjong – a board game as ancient as China itself,  before winding its way amongst dust and pollution covered shrubs and a few trees to an area where Ti Chi can be undertaken.  Ti Chi is seems to be practiced by everyone in China, and as such special areas are often set aside to practice this oriental form of relaxation. 

Adjacent to the Tie Chi section of the park are numerous exercise machines available for public use in addition to a number of old wooden benches.  Tired from wandering back alleys I decide to sit on a bench and observe Chinese daily life – at least amongst the elderly.  Interestingly, the sound of traffic had subsided, and I wondered if the thick cement walls surrounding the small park was the reason; I could even here the sound of a few cheerful birds whose chirping had become very obvious by their earlier absence.  Soon after, a loud electric saw intervened in the silence and looking toward the sound, I saw beside the park wall an industrious fellow busily making coffins.  The Chinese work and work as long as they make money!

Red Ribbons

One activity I found intruding was the Chinese propensity to hang red coloured ribbons from the trees in parks that support religious buildings.  The writing on the ribbons may seek enlightenment, help, or offer goodwill to someone departed.  In one park, I believe there were over 500 ribbons hanging from almost every tree surrounding a Buddhist shrine.  Although these ribbons are distinctly oriental from their appearance, I have witnessed similar occurrences in north America where indigenous Americans secure to tree limbs, offerings to appease Spirit Gods and departed spirits.

LEFT:  Long thin ribbons are pinned to trees and are talismans the living and deceased.

Communism

It’s very easy to forget that China’s real name is the Peoples Republic of China and that it’s Government is communist.  I have no interest is delving into the political structure of China as this topic, although interesting, requires far  more space and time than I can devote.  I did note on my very short visit the overwhelming number of officials  seemingly doing nothing other than making a presence by being visible; whether they be police officers, security guards, military personnel pedestrian helpers, or officials walking along the street or sitting drinking tea.  I was told that this is one of the methods that the Government uses to control the populous – just by being seen is to remind everyone that they are being watched.  Certainly, I did not walk more than 30 minutes without seeing one of these officials and it was obvious that they were watching you.  I have no doubt that should something unsavoury had occurred then the security forces would have be quick to react.

LEFT:  An official relaxes with his green tea.  Officials appear indescript and part of the surrounding the environment, but they represent the Government and are there for a reason.

Street Crossings are Unsafe

Pedestrian helpers, which in Australia are called Lollipop Officers  stand at most intersections and there sole responsibility is to assist you to cross the road safely, despite the fact that the light’s red to traffic and a green man is lit up suggesting it’s safe to cross.  The Chinese, at least in Shanghai, do not obey traffic regulations – period.  I was almost "run over and into"a few times attempting to cross the road at a pedestrian crossing.  Most of the cars will stop, however, bicycles and motor scooters are above the law and flit through the red lights taking advantage of a break in traffic.  I learn that in Shanghai when crossing any road, behave as a fighter pilot does and swivel your head 360 degrees to ensure nothing is about to run you down!

My next post will be the final segment of my trip to China and will look at the Chinese people.

Downtown Shanghai, People's Republic of China

Due to other commitments, my stay in urban China was short, however, I did have three days to explore the metropolis of what has been called the most dramatic city in the world’s most changing nation.  As indicated in an earlier post, Shanghai is a very cosmopolitan city that has developed into the epitome of western Chinese culture; Most of what is Shanghai is the biggest, the best and the brightest.  To represent this a friend coined the term “bling”; Shanghai has bling everywhere.

LEFT:  My trusty Lonely Planet Guide which opens you to delites that Shanghai offers.  This was taken from my apartment balcony and soon after you could not even see the buildings due to the pollution.

Christopher Isherwood in 1937 summered up Shanghai very well when he stated that “seen from the river, towering above their warships, the skyscrapers and impressive buildings of the Bund present, impressively, the façade of a great city.  But it is only a façade”. 

I discovered that much of what China shows the world is a façade.

Main Shopping Area

The main tourist/shopping region is as you would expect in any other major city; there are no surprises here. Large cement buildings stretch towards the sky whilst glass towers gleam in the sunlight. Advertising beckons to passing visitors to share their savings and purchase another unnecessary item to add to the growing collection of unessentials.  It’s a fact that the people of Shanghai are renown China wide as the “shoppers of China”; they live to shop - and you can literally purchase whatever you want here (just make sure it’s real and not a reproduction). 

Hawkers and Scams

You don’t have to wait long before hawkers single you out amongst a sea of black haired clone-like individuals in an attempt to sell you a reproduction Rolex watch, whilst in the more quiet areas of downtown, you maybe offered the services of a Chinese prostitute or be cajoled into speaking to a young Chinese girl wishing to practice her English. 

LEFT:  The ritz and glitz of Shanghai central.  Fashion conscious Chinese stroll through the maon shopping district.

The way this scam works is that a young attractive Chinese girl will approach you and ask to practice her English.  Most visitors will readily agree to this and before they know they are having an interesting conservation.  The girl will ask if you may like to visit a local coffee shop, share a coffee or tea and talk more.  Removed from the burden and boredom of work schedules most people agree.  The idea is that the girl will have you taste a variety of teas and then, with the help of the store owner, attempt to sell you the tea at a very high price.  Most smart travellers catch on very fast and make an exit, however, for the less initiated a large bill will await them before they can leave the premises.

The Bund and Financial District

The Bund area of Shanghai is one of the major stopping off points for anyone in Shanghai.  The bund was originally created to hold the banks of the meandering Yangze River at bay, and having accomplished this, has allowed development on both sides of the river.  On one side of the river is the marvellous buildings constructed in the early 19^th Century which depict Art Deco and Victorian architecture.  These buildings tell of a time when Shanghai danced the tune to British colonialism and sovereignty and companies such as the Dutch East India Company were prominent in world markets and trade.

ABOVE:  Night shot of the Shanghai Financial District.  Note the thunderbird look-alike Oriental Pearl Tower.  Obtaining a clean shot without a large freighter in the scene was difficult.

On the far side of the river, which is connected by an underground tunnel sporting such bright lights that make Hollywood’s Star Gate pale into insignificance, is the major financial district of Shanghai.  Here are constructed some of the tallest and oddest buildings on the planet.  At night, they are lit in varying colours amidst laser lights and huge billboards (the size of a drive-in  theatre screen) promoting “I love Shanghai and Samsung.  Apart from the obvious glass towers and tall skyscrapers there is an assortment of oddities such as the Oriental Pearl Tower that looks more belonging to the Thunderbirds Are Go film set.

LEFT:  Accommodation blocks stand out in stark contrast against a yellow backdrop of aerial pollution.

Photographing the bund area is enjoyable – mainly because there are people everywhere; for the most part Chinese tourists on holiday in Shanghai!  The city skyline is well worth the effort to see, provide visibility isn’t minimal due to  aerial pollution.  I was keen to take an elevator to the observation deck of one of the towers, but refrained from doing so when I noted that visibility was so poor that you could hardly see the top of the tower from ground level.

I was amazed to watch the volume and frequency of sea-going boats that traversed the Yangze River adjacent to the bund and city.  There was never, in the 4 hours I was here, a break of more than 2 minutes without shipping!  Everything from coal carrying tugs and barges, to military boats, police launches and massive cargo carrying ocean-going ships.  It seemed as if the world was coming to Shanghai – in a boat!

Pollution and Rubbish

You cannot be at the centre of manufacturing, have a population of 25 million people, and have the largest growing economy on earth without pollution; that’s fact.  The aerial pollution in my opinion wasn’t good, however, speaking with Chinese they claimed that the days I was in Shanghai the pollution was minimal.  I learnt that China had closed many of the factories in the district in addition to minimising the number of vehicles entering the city to reduce aerial pollution whilst the China International Expo was being held. 

According to Reuters, "During the Expo, the government was very conscious about our air quality and wanting to give foreign visitors a good impression," said Lisa Jin, a student at East China Normal University in Shanghai.  "But after the Expo they have become lax and do not seem to care about the air quality."

LEFT:  Motorcycles parked in front of accomodation blocks in Shanghai.  Exhaust pollutants are a major cause of aerial pollution in the city.

I think I saw part blue sky once.  For the most part it was as if I was walking in a yellow fog.  Sadly, the Chinese do not seem to be too concerned with the pollutants entering the atmosphere, however, if China is to continue along the superpower highway then eventually, the authorities will need to address this ever-pressing question.

Paradoxically, I was very surprised that city streets and the Yangze River were clean of the normal rubbish too often observed in western cities.  I don’t think I saw a cigarette butt and the volume of street litter (paper and bags) was very minimal.  Watching the Yangze River flow along the edge of the Bund I was pleased to not to see very much floating rubbish.  This is in contrast to other nations I have visited: Indonesia, parts of the Philippines and Tonga which had streets and land literally carpeted in day to day rubbish. 

I have read that Shanghai recycles approximately 80% of it’s rubbish – no doubt this is what happens to the seemingly endless supply of plastic drinking water bottles.  As to the water quality of the Yanze River, I would be foolhardy to comment, but I was informed that the tap water was not a beverage.

In my next post we’ll explore some of the dichotomies associated with Shanghai.

"Let's Get Married" - Chinese Style, People's Republic of China

During a break in the formal proceedings, Danniel Berehulak (Getty Images) and myself discovered several Chinese wedding photographers earning their living in a small artificial town aptly called Thames.

Thames Town is the English name for a new town created along the Yantze River in Songjiang  Province 30 km from Shanghai.  The area is named after the River Thames in England.  The architecture both imitates and is influenced by classic English market town styles. There are cobbled streets, Victorian terraces, corner shops - empty as in an abandoned film set.  

Some of the architecture has been directly copied from buildings found in England, such as the church copied from a  similar church in Bristol, England and a fish & chip shop copied from one located in Dorset. The picturesque church and main square makes an idyllic backdrop for many Chinese Wedding photographers to ply his or her trade. (in part from Wikipedia).  The duplication even goes so far as to include a full size bronze statue of Winston Churchill.

To westerners the idea of a white wedding is relatively straight forward, however, the Chinese add a twist to this traditional approach by doing things a little differently – especially in relation to how they have there photographs taken and the locations they choose to be photographed in.  It would appear that it isn’t trendy and schk  o be photographed in China, so a complete town has been created to give the illusion of being somewhere else.

On the afternoon I visited Thames, it was solidly being used by several photographers, grooms and brides dressed in an assortment of wedding outfits.  I learnt that this didn’t just occur on weekends or on the odd week day, but was a constant production-line seven days a week providing an annual income for several dozen photographers.

Small somewhat dirty shop fronts provide enclaves for the bridle pair to change clothes or confer with their photographer.  One young groom sported a tight t-short and carried a multi-coloured umbrella, while another bride leaned towards a wall and with arms outstretched glancing over her shoulder with a sultry expression on her face.  One wedding group had a helper hitch the wedding gown of a bride almost to her waist before flinging the gown into the air in the hope that the photographer will capture the gown in full flight.  Photographic technicians (aka helpers) stand vigilance over a arsenal of photographic accessories: spotlights, strobes, gels, flash guns, translucent and gold coloured diffusers.

The light is almost perfect for wedding portraits, not because it’s low to the horizon, but because the light was filtered through a haze of aerial pollutants which act as a huge sky diffuser removing strong shadows and provided a surreal yellowish tinge to anything photographed.

Continual Security

Although China is the People's Republic and the Government has grasped the main attributes of Capitalism, it must be remembered that essentially China is a Communist nation and as such abides to the rules, however shaky, of communist idealism. 

Although the wedding couples were no doubt enjoying their recent marriage, security was omnipresent.  Automatic cameras hung from several buildings and security personnel (dressed in official red coloured tunics) walked about the area or stood immobilised outside public buildings.  Interestingly, unlike western nations, in particular the United States of America, I did not see a pistol, revolver or automatic weapon during my visit the People's Republic.  I will write more on this in a later post.....

 

ABOVE:  Chinese brides and grooms pose for wedding photographs.

ABOVE LEFT: Small basic shop-fronts offer a seat and mirror for brides to dress and alter their makeup before getting their photographs taken in the Thames.

ABOVE RIGHT: Small "pub-like" building is a  exact copy (replica) of a English pub in Bristol.  I'm not sure if it actually is open for use or just facade.

CHIPP Photographic Awards, People's Republic of China

I was invited at very short notice to Songjiang Province on the outskirts of Shanghai by the China International Press Photographers Association (CHIPP).  In a flurry of activity, last minute preparations were made to obtain my Chinese VISA.  This included filling out several forms, a passport photo and a visit to the embassy in Melbourne – all on the day before I was due to fly out of Australia – this was literally arranging things on the “fly”.  Special permission had to arranged by the embassy staff to secure a business VISA.

 I had absolutely no idea what to expect after reaching Chinese soil as minimal information had been received.  Upon arrival, I wasn't surprised by the official and courteous behaviour of Chinese officials in the airport at Shanghai (in comparison to some western airports); Shanghai is known as a cosmopolitan city with a true blend of eastern and western culture that has developed since the 1800’s when Britain, Holland and the Dutch East India Company reigned supreme. 

Meeting four  Chinese, who spoke little English, I was bundled into a dark coloured van, offered a bottle of drinking water and then driven at high speed (150 km/h) along a four- lane highway to my accommodation an hour or so away.  The whole experience was rather surreal, but as I was to learn, this is standard operating procedure in a semi-communist country.  After being on an aircraft for most of the day and evening, It was well after 1am before I finally found the time to sleep. 

The next morning while dining on a tasty Chinese-style breakfast I learnt that the photographic award ceremony was to encompass the next two days before “my release” (their words) for two days free activity.  After meeting the fellow photographers who had also been nominated for awards we were shuffled by van then a small electric tram to the Songjiang Art Museum where the ceremonies were to take place.  We were provided an Chinese-English translator as we had to each deliver a short speech and partake in an question and answer session on the attributes of the photograph we have taken. 

We met with a charming girl called Lilac who we were to learn was the local Songjiang  Province Government official and Communist Party member.  Lilac was responsible for ensuring that the  Government’s agenda was achieved and for ensuring that we were well looked after – a job she did exceedingly well (thank you Lilac).

If you were looking for term that could be used to describe urban China it would be “bling”.  Everything is BIG with much fan-fair, bright lights, colours and officialdom.  When we each received our awards it was not a humble event.  Instead, after the officials from the Government and CHIPP concluded some speeches and basic introductions we were invited, to the tune of “Rocky” to the stage where we were bathed in the strong light from portable spotlights. 

Chinese girls in traditional costumes then proceeded to march along the edge of the stage to the rear of us carrying our large and heavy crystal awards.  The Chinese then made speeches outlining to the eagerly waiting press the international significance and importance to China of such an event before giving us our awards with much solemn hand shaking and nods of approval.  This was in tune to thousands of clicks from Canon and Nikon cameras, the flurry of overactive Chinese press photographers,  and the steady whirl to two television cameras. 

Following this was banquet-style lunch at a local high class restaurant.  After lunch we were invited to view the award photographs which were framed and mounted for display in the Art Museum.  Press and journalists were present to photograph the event and many of us were asked for personal autographs. 

At the conclusion of this “rubbing shoulders” event we were graciously guided to the stage to sit in an open lounge under the glare of video lights to answer questions about our photography style to interested individuals in the audience.  During this time all I remember is the glare of lights, the “pop” of flashes and the machine-gun rattle of shutters.  All of us learnt very quickly not to play with your fingernails, scratch your nose or slurp the Chinese green tea that was in large supply; an inappropriate move was instantly recorded by a flurry of photographic activity. 

This photographic activity was continued the following day when we were taken an a photographic excursion to several locally important landmarks.  A large bus followed our small vehicle and whenever we went we were accompanied by 50 plus photographic journalists – all committed to photographing each of us from every angle several times.  At one stage I saw something interesting at the Chinese garden we visited.  No sooner had I lifted my camera and focussed that I realized there were some 10 cameras pointing in my direction to record the momentous event! 

The Chinese press were delighted when we performed for the camera or photographed a local person.  We all laughed when at one stage a local lady and her small dog was caught in the limelight!  What must have been 50 cameras were pointed at this cute dog in a mass of photo journalism as the dog’s movement was captured in digital celluloid.  I have no idea what the dog’s owner thought!

A Word About The Images

The above images were shot "on the fly" and very quickly.  As I was an award recipient it wasn't really appropiate that I stopped to take "decent" photographs.  The western person in the fourth  & fifth photograph from the top is Danniel Berehaluk from Getty Images who was the highest award receiver.

In the second image form the top you can just make out the top of the large crystal trophy that each of us was awarded along with a smaller leather bound certifcate.  The trophy was large with a height of 43 cm (17 inches) and quite heavy at 3.3 KG (7.3 lbs).  I'm still smiling at the thought of Danniel, who was awarded 5 tropies, carrying them to the international flight as hand luggage!

A Word of Thanks

I'd like to say "thank you" to Thomson Reuters UK and the CHIPP organisation who made it possible to visit China. 

China Continued, but Indonesia Underwater On-Hold

I will post a few threads regarding my experiences in China over the next couple of weeks.  My recent Indonesian trip, from which I returned immediately before departing for China, will have to wait a short while as I catch up.  This trip was very good and I photographed several species of frogfish, schooling hammerhead sharks and many species of nudibranch.